Hi, my name is Simone and I run an Eyelash Studio in Chemnitz and specialise in Eyelash Extensions and Eyelash Lifting. We have been a Certified Eyelash Studio since 12 years and have ample experience in the use of the available standard products. Time and time again we are faced with the same problems that recur in the Eyelash Lifting procedure in our daily work. Here I am going to explain how to avoid these problems:
Problem no. 1: The lifting glue does not hold?
These are the most common reasons for lifting glues to lack holding capacity:
- Lifting glue quality: pay attention to the glue quality; we have achieved positive results by using the XXL Lashes Lifting Adhesive, products by the Augenmanufaktur company and by the Korean company Dolly Lash. Chinese products are to be avoided.
- Inadequate pre-cleaning: if eyelashes are not well cleaned or if oil-based cleansers are used for the same, it reduces the adhesive capacity of the lifting glue.
- Primer: after pre-cleaning, the eyelashes need to be primed once again with a primer or cleanser to remove all traces of residual oil film. For this directly affects the fixing process of eyelashes on the silicon pad. Often this leads to excessive application of the lifting glue negatively impacting the efficacy of the lotions applied thereafter. XXL Lashes Primer is an ideal cleaning and degreasing agent.
- The eyelashes have not dried completely: damp eyelashes require a lot of lifting glue to get optimum holding capacity. Thus do see to it that the eyelashes are completely dry before starting on the application. An air blower can be come in handy for this.
- Very high humidity: whereas high humidity is welcome in an eyelash extension procedure, it is exactly the opposite with eyelash lifting. High humidity is also the reason for the lifting glue to not dry thoroughly and upon applying the 1st lotion some of the already set eyelashes come off the silicon pad. You must avoid this, since it prevents the undone eyelashes from setting uniformly with the rest in the application process. Use a Hygrometer to check the humidity in the room, we advise you to use a dehumidifier should it exceed 55 %.
- Warmth and heat: the lifting glue consistency changes in exceedingly warm studio spaces. It becomes runnier. Remember therefore to store it in a cool place.
- Clean silicon pads: squeaky clean silicon pads are a prerequisite for proper adhesion. Always clean them in hot water before application.
- Old glue loses its adhesive quality. Thus check the expiry date of your lifting glue in time before the scheduled application session.
Problem no. 2: Using excessive lifting glue
If excessive glue is used to set the eyelashes then they get “sealed”. The lotions used thereafter cannot penetrate the structure of the eyelash hair adequately and absorption is not sufficient to achieve an ideal eyelash lift.
Problem no. 3: Wrong choice of silicon pads
The right size for silicon pads is one that covers the entire length of the eyelid well and can accommodate all the eyelashes, even the outer ones. Only then can the eyelashes get evenly formed.
The curvature of the silicon pads should correspond to the length of the eyelashes so that the eyelashes do not rest straight on the pad, as illustrated in this example to the left, but allow a nice upright sweep.
Size S is the most problematic silicon pad size. Many eyelash stylists think they will get the best curl from silicon pads of this size. In reality though, this is most often not the case; in fact what can happen is that there is no lifting effect at all, unless of course the eyelashes are very short. The shallow curvature does no more than just smoothen and stretch the eyelashes and fails to create a sweeping curl.
Problem no. 4: The eyelashes crisscross
That can be the case equally BEFORE and AFTER the application. Natural eyelashes that curl unevenly, crisscrossing in different directions are very complicated to work on. It, nevertheless, offers a client the opportunity to discern the effects of application. While lifting the eyelashes upwards, if you place them very carefully one after the other on the pad, parallel to each other, the eyelashes will retain this parallel position after the lifting procedure. Under no circumstances should the eyelashes lie crisscross on the pad; they have to lie parallel to each other, or else they will stay misshapen after the lifting procedure. That does not look good at all, even worse, they tilt increasingly to the side once the eyelashes start growing out.
Problem no. 5: Gauging exposure time at one’s discretion
Carefully read the instructions on the packing before every application since individual brands have individual exposure times based on the lotions and their chemical processes.
If you rather work at a leisurely pace and have no time restrictions for a session, you may use products with an exposure time of 10-15 minutes like the Dolly Lash Lifting.
As professionals we set store by eyelash lifting brands offering short exposure times of 2-5 minutes as in the case of Super Lash Lifting by XXL Lashes. The Super Lash Lift Kit is presently the best choice for eyelash lifting.
5-minute exposure time can be too much for extremely fine eyelashes and too short for thick eyelashes. Even if this is not something you should be randomly adjusting on your own, your experience is called upon to decide how much time is required to set/curl fine eyelashes as against thick eyelashes. If unsure, stick to the “less is more” maxim even in this case, especially for lotions with shorter exposure times that react faster.
Problem no. 6: When eyelashes sustain chemical burns by lash lifting
Hair structure that appears crimped or ‘charred’ is indicative of this form of damage. It comes from excessive use of perming lotion or the upper and finer part of the eyelash tips being subjected to an excessively long exposure time. Prevent this by following the instructions below:
- The most commonly made mistake is ignoring the recommended exposure time. Using your discretion in this case is entirely inappropriate as this, more often than not, severely damages eyelashes or even causes chemical burns.
- Between each step, the lotion used before has to be removed first. You must be mindful of removing it carefully before applying the next lotion. If they happen to mix, it will trigger an undesirable chemical process that will later cause the eyelash tips to crimp.
- Avoid applying too much lotion since it “creeps” into the tips during the exposure time. Even if it is not apparent to the naked eye, it can well be that the lotion has leaked into the tips because of heat and set off the lifting effect there too.
- You have to go about even more carefully when working on fine eyelashes since the lotions react much faster in this case. Even as far as the amount of liquids applied is concerned, the “better less than more” maxim applies to reduce the chemical exposure.
- It is very important to clean the eyelashes thoroughly with a cleansing lotion after the lifting procedure. Only by washing thoroughly can you remove and avoid all the chemical substances that can react with heat, sun, sauna or solarium to set off or continue further uncontrollable chemical reactions.
Problem no. 7: No notes were made on the application procedure
We hope your clients remain loyal to you and will return. You should follow the tips mentioned below to get consistently best results, also at repeat visits:
- Make copious notes on the sequence of action taken for the eyelash lifting procedure for each client, especially, how much lotion was applied and the time of exposure
- Make a note for yourself also of how successful the outcome was. I suggest you take before and after photos.
- Ask your client at the next lifting session whether there are any changes in health
- conditions, e.g. whether there are changes in medicine intake, since such changes in living conditions can have an impact on the outcome of follow-up lifting procedures. Make a note of this information.
- If you notice that the client still has too many baby eyelashes at the follow-up lifting session, postpone the session to a later date to avoid crimping (chemical burn) of many of the baby eyelashes.
- Monitor the growth of eyelashes. How far has the client’s eyelash growth cycle advanced at the follow-up session? Are 6-8 weeks enough, or can the next lifting procedure be done only after 10-12 weeks?
TIP: Colour the eyelashes thereafter
We advise you to colour the eyelashes subsequent to the eyelash lifting procedure with this eyebrow and eyelash colour for two reasons. Firstly, this visually enhances the eyelash lifting effect and secondly it helps to ease out the eyelashes from the silicon pads.
Eyelash lifting is a preferred alternative among eyelash extension methods and lasts for about 6-8 weeks. I have acquired a lot of new clients by offering this service and increased my earnings. Owing to the short exposure time of the XXL Lashes lotions for eyelash lifting, the entire application can be completed in less than 30 minutes. This reduction in application time leads to greater cost efficiency, which is music to the ears for customers and beauticians alike.
The process of setting crisscross growth of eyelashes into neat parallels has been a thumping success in this example of eyelash lifting.
I hope my tips are helpful. I would love to hear from you about your problems or solutions. Do write to me …..